Highlights: Blue Tears, Min Dong style architecture, civil war heritage sites, seafood
I took a trip to Matsu in June 2024, primarily to witness the blue tears phenomenon. However, it turned out to be so much more. This was my first trip since buying a DSLR, so I was still getting familiar with it. Unfortunately, I only figured out how to capture the blue tears properly on the last day, by which time they were no longer visible. For those who wish to see some fascinating photos, you can simply google “Blue Tears Matsu” to find a bunch of stunning images.
Table of Contents
General Information
Geography
Matsu, an archipelago of 36 islands and islets, is situated in the East China Sea. Geologically, Matsu’s islands are primarily composed of granite and other igneous rocks, indicative of their ancient volcanic origins. These islands feature rugged terrain with rocky coastlines, dramatic cliffs, and scattered sandy beaches, shaped by both natural erosion and tectonic activity over millions of years.
Matsu is located just off the coast of mainland China, approximately 19 kilometers (12 miles) west of the Chinese city of Fuzhou in Fujian Province. This proximity to China is significant both historically and geopolitically. In contrast, Matsu is about 190 kilometers (118 miles) from the main island of Taiwan. Despite its closer distance to China, Matsu is administered by Taiwan, creating a unique geopolitical dynamic.
The islands’ geological formations, combined with their strategic location, have contributed to their historical importance as military outposts and their modern appeal as tourist destinations, known for their natural beauty and rich cultural heritage.
There are 5 main islands to visit in Matsu, including:
- Nangan (南竿): The largest island and the political and cultural hub, offering attractions such as the Beihai Tunnel and the Iron Fort.
- Beigan (北竿): Known for its picturesque village of Qinbi and beautiful beaches, providing a more laid-back atmosphere.
- East Juguang (東莒): Featuring a historical lighthouse, traditional stone houses.
- West Juguang (西莒): Known for its unique square-shaped waves formed by the collision of perpendicular wave directions.
- Dongyin (東引): The northernmost island, known for stunning coastal scenery and military relics.
Weather (2023/2024) & Peak/off-Season
The peak tourist season in Matsu coincides significantly with the season of the Blue Tears, a rare natural phenomenon observable in only a few places worldwide. This spectacle typically occurs from April to June, overlapping with the plum rain season, which brings unsteady and unpredictable weather. Additionally, the subsequent shoulder season, from July to October, aligns with the typhoon season. As a result, the monthly rainfall during this period is highly variable, depending heavily on whether or not the island is affected by a typhoon each year.
| Month | High / Low | Rain | Popularity | Blue Tears |
| Jan | 21 / 2℃ | 34 mm | Low | No |
| Feb | 25 / 6℃ | 50 mm | Low | No |
| Mar | 27 / 6℃ | 70 mm | Low | No |
| Apr | 28 / 12℃ | 173 mm | High | Yes |
| May | 29 / 13℃ | 160 mm | High | Yes |
| Jun | 32 / 17℃ | 300 mm | High | Yes |
| Jul | 34 / 24℃ | 57 mm | Shoulder | Maybe |
| Aug | 35 / 22℃ | 100 mm | Shoulder | Maybe |
| Sep | 32 / 24℃ | 142 mm | Shoulder | Maybe |
| Oct | 28 / 17℃ | 20 mm | Shoulder | Maybe |
| Nov | 28 / 12℃ | 16 mm | Low | No |
| Dec | 25 / 4℃ | 23 mm | Low | No |
How to get there?
I believe the most significant challenge for foreigners visiting Matsu is the language barrier, as many of the websites for booking transportation are available only in Mandarin, with limited support for those who don’t speak the language. The government could certainly improve accessibility in this regard. To assist, I’ll provide some guidance on how to reach the island.
By plane
The Matsu Islands are served by two airports: Beigan Airport (MFK) and Nangan Airport (LZN). Originally, one of these airports was designated for military use but was later converted to civilian use. The change was necessitated by Matsu’s frequent foggy conditions, which often led to flight cancellations. Having two airports on separate islands allows for flexibility, as planes from Taiwan can divert to the other airport if one is fogged in. However, due to the close proximity of the islands, it’s common for both airports to experience fog simultaneously, complicating air travel. As a result, traveling to Matsu by plane can be unreliable, with up to half of the flights frequently cancelled. Despite this, flying remains the quickest way to reach Matsu.
There are two airlines operating flights to Matsu: Mandarin Airlines (華信) and Uni Air (立榮), which are subsidiaries of China Airlines (華航) and EVA Air (長榮), respectively. In Taiwan, domestic flight prices are regulated and fixed, and according to Taiwanese laws, these flights should be fully refundable before departure. Flights to Matsu depart from two airports: Songshan Airport (TSA) and Taichung Airport (RMQ). TSA flies to both Nangan and Beigan in Matsu, while RMQ only serves Nangan.
| Departure | Destination | Price | Remark |
| Taipei (TSA) | Nangan (LZN) | US$ 70 | Both airlines |
| Taipei (TSA) | Beigan (MFK) | US$ 70 | Both airlines |
| Taichung (RMQ) | Nangan (LZN) | US$ 85 | Only operated by Uni Air |
Websites for booking flights offer English language options.
| Uni Air (Link): https://www.uniair.com.tw/rwd/index.aspx |
| Mandarin Air (Link): https://www.mandarin-airlines.com/ |
Check-in for flights must be done on site and should be completed at least 30 minutes before departure. If you fail to check in on time, your seat may become eligible for standby.
By boat
The speed boat service to Matsu, which took only 3 hours, ceased operations in 2024. Currently, the only available option is a ferry from Keelung Harbor (基隆港), taking approximately 10-12 hours to reach Matsu. This overnight ferry, operated by New Taima (新臺馬) daily except on Tuesdays when Taima Star (臺馬之星) takes over, makes two stops: Dongyin (東引) and Nangan (南竿). The sequence of stops for New Taima depends on the date: on odd-numbered days, the ferry first arrives at Nangan and then proceeds to Dongyin, while on even-numbered days, the order is reversed. The route sequence for Taima Star is the opposite of New Taima’s schedule.
The ferry is operated daily by New Taima (新台馬) except on Tuesdays, when it is operated by Taima Star (台馬之星). Here is the schedule table:
| Day | Wed-Mon | Tue |
| Ferry | New Taima | Taima Star |
| Departure | 22:30 | 22:00 |
| Arrival to Dongyin | Odd- 11:30 Even- 06:00 | Odd- 06:00 Even- 10:50 |
| Arrival to Nangan | Odd- 07:00 Even- 08:30 | Odd- 09:50 Even- 07:00 |
| Price | Seat: US$ 20 Berth: US$ 32 | Seat: US$ 20 Berth: US$ 32 |
| Matsu Maritime Transport Reservation and Ticketing System (馬祖海上交通訂位購票系統) (Link): https://www.matsuebs.com/home/SelectShip#reset |
Source: 馬祖海上交通訂位系統
To book a one-way ticket from Taiwan to Nangan, the booking form includes four columns. The first three columns are in Mandarin, which I will translate for you. In the “Destination” column, only destinations compatible with the departure location are displayed. Note that Taipei Harbor, although still listed, is no longer used for ships to Matsu and can be disregarded. If you select Keelung as your departure point, only Dongyin and Nangan will appear as options in the destination tab.
| 單程/來回 (One-way or return) | 出發 (Departure) | 抵達 (Destination) |
| 單程: One-way | 基隆: Keelung | |
| 來回: Return | 東引: Dongyin | 東引: Dongyin |
| 南竿: Nangan | 南竿: Nangan | |
| 北竿: Beigan | ||
| 西莒: West Juguang | ||
| 東莒: East Juguang | ||
| 台北港: Taipei Harbor |
Source: 馬祖海上交通訂位系統
Once you complete the first step, details such as the name of the ferry, departure, and arrival times will be displayed. In this instance, the ferry is named New Taima, departing at 22:30 and arriving at Nangan at 08:30 the following day. The route for this ferry is to first reach Dongyin, then Nangan. A teal-colored button indicates the remaining seats on this boat, which are 14.
Click on it and proceed to the next step. The following page will display the disclaimers. Check the box to acknowledge them and then press “Next.”
Source: 馬祖海上交通訂位系統
This page will display all the remaining eligible options. Here, you can select your preferred options and choose the number of passengers. Below are all the possible options:
| Options | Meaning | Price (NTD) | Price (US$) |
| 頭等艙 | First Class (a room with 2 beds) | 1,890 | 60 |
| 貴賓艙 | VIP Class (a room with 4 bunk beds) | 1,575 | 50 |
| 臥鋪 (單) | Economy Class (one bunk bed) | 1,050 | 32 |
| 臥鋪 (親子) | Economy Class (double bunk bed for a parent and a kid) | 840 | 26 |
| 經濟座艙 | Economy Class (chair) | 630 | 20 |
For both the First Class and VIP Class, rooms are sold as a bundle, meaning you must fill the room to the required capacity to make a reservation. Each ferry has only one First Class room, making it very difficult to book. Additionally, only the First Class room includes a shower.
Source: 馬祖海上交通訂位系統
The next page requires you to fill in the passenger’s information.
| 艙等 (Class) | 國籍 (Nationality) | 身分證號 (Passport ID) | 乘客姓名 (Name) | 性別 (Gender) | 生日 (Date of birth) | 票種 (Type of ticket) |
| 本國 (Taiwan) | 男 (Male) | YYYYMMDD | 全票 (Regular) | |||
| 外國 (Foreign) | 女 (Female) | |||||
| 陸籍 (China) |
In the “Type of ticket” section, always select “全票 (regular).” Other ticket types are reserved for residents of Matsu or elderly citizens.
As for the content below:
- 訂購人資料 (Purchaser information): Check the box below if the purchaser is the same as the first person listed on the passenger list.
- 電子信箱 (Email address)
The next page will display the total price of the tickets. Click the teal-colored button with a credit card icon labeled “信用卡付款” (Credit Card Payment). Enter your credit card information to complete the booking!
You will receive a confirmation email in Mandarin. If needed, you can copy and paste the content into ChatGPT for a full translation. The most crucial piece of information in the email is your reservation code (訂位代碼), which is an alphanumeric code starting with ‘N1N’ followed by five digits, for example, N1Nxxxxx.
You can either collect the ticket in advance using the “ibon” machine available at any 7-11 convenience store or pick up the ticket at the counter before boarding. Boarding begins an hour before departure at the Keelung West Passenger Terminal, so make sure to allow sufficient time.
My recommendation
I would highly recommend taking the overnight ferry to Matsu and flying back to Taiwan. The ferry is less likely to be canceled, which helps prevent disruption to your itinerary. Plus, you can sleep through the journey and arrive refreshed. If the weather is good, you might even see the sunrise from the ocean on the ferry. However, the return ferry from Matsu to Taiwan operates during the day, making it a long and potentially boring journey. Although your flight back might be canceled, you can get on the standby list. If too many flights are canceled, additional flights will be arranged. If you have a flexible schedule, staying an extra day or two in Matsu is always an option.
How to get around in Matsu?
There are three ways: by scooter, by car, or hire a taxi.
By scooter
Most people choose to explore the island by scooter, but I highly recommend AGAINST it. The island has steep slopes everywhere, which can be dangerous if you are not an experienced rider. The rental price is NT 500 (US$ 15) per day. You can either rent a scooter outside the airport or harbor, or ask the owner of your accommodation to arrange it for you.
By car
In my opinion, this is the BEST option, though it is more expensive. Parking is easy in Matsu, and there are no places that are only accessible by scooter. The rental price is NT 2500 (US$ 80) per day.
| Car Rental (馬祖小客車租賃股份有限公司) (phone): +886-919856389 |
Hire a taxi
The price is negotiable, usually around NT 2000 for half a day, and the driver can also serve as a local guide. However, most drivers don’t speak English. The greatest downside of hiring a taxi instead of driving yourself is that it would be difficult to track the Blue Tears at night, as there are no taxis available at that time.
Is it safe to travel to Taiwan?
Despite the constant military tension with China, Taiwan is consistently ranked as one of the safest places on Earth. There were some military exercises since the inauguration this year in May, and Matsu was briefly surrounded by Chinese military vessels for a few days. However, transportation to and from Matsu to Taiwan was not affected at all.
On various crime indices, Taiwan, when counted separately from China, often ranks alongside traditionally safe countries like Singapore or Japan. For instance, you don’t have to carry your backpack in front of you to avoid pickpockets anywhere in Taiwan. It is safe to leave your bag, laptop, or phone at your seat while you order food in a cafe or go to the restroom. Nobody is going to steal from you. The police take theft very seriously and would concentrate on your case because it seldom happens. Additionally, there are no scams at popular tourist sites.
In the next post, I will share the itineraries and explain why I arranged them this way. Stay tuned!