Japan (Kansai Fall Foliage) – Kyoto

Kyoto is an amazing city and definitely a favorite destination for many people visiting Japan. It’s the highlight of this trip to the Kansai region. Most travel blogs list all the attractions and things to do in the area. However, in a big city or a city with numerous attractions, it might be better to plan the order of your visits instead of buying a pass and visiting sites randomly. I tend to visit places as if it’s the last time I’ll be there. So, this post is going to be a relatively extensive one. I won’t bother you with detailed descriptions or histories of the attractions. There are numerous people more qualified to do so.

Get to Kyoto from Osaka

There are 5 major means of public transportation to get to Kyoto, I will list them below, and then let you know my choice, and why.

Line	Osaka	Kyoto	Duration
JR Tokaido Shinkansen	New Osaka Station	Kyoto Station	~15 minutes
JR Kyoto Line	Osaka Station	Kyoto Station	~30 minutes
Keihan Line 🎟	Yodoyabashi (淀屋橋駅)	Demachiyanagi (出町柳駅)	~60 minutes
Hankyu Line 🎟	Hankyu-Osaka-Umeda	Kyoto-Kawaramachi (京都河原町駅)	~50 minutes
Kintetsu Line 🎟	Osaka-Namba	Kyoto Station (via Nara)	~80 minutes

I chose the Hankyu Line due to its affordability and convenient location. The JR line, though the fastest option, was excluded because it’s not covered by the Kansai Thru Pass. Additionally, while accommodations near Kyoto Station are excellent for exploring the city, the cost was a deciding factor.

As for the Kintetsu Line, it requires a transfer via Nara. This route is a good choice if you’re traveling from Osaka to Nara and then to Kyoto. In hindsight, this might have been a better option for me, since I ended up needing a JR ride for my Osaka to Kyoto to Nara route, which I hadn’t fully considered at the time.

Lastly, I didn’t choose the Keihan Line because the areas around Karasuma Station and Kyoto-Kawaramachi Station offer a better base for exploring the city than Demachiyanagi Station. Though it’s possible to transfer once to reach the downtown area, I prefer to keep things simple to minimize potential errors.

So, here’s what I planned:

1. Midosuji Line (御堂筋線): Shinsaibashi Station (心斎橋駅) → Umeda Station (梅田駅)
2. Hankyu-Kyoto Line (阪急京都本線): Hankyu-Osaka-Umeda Station (阪急電鉄大阪梅田駅) → Karasuma Station (烏丸駅)

In a foreigner’s opinion, the area surrounded by a red dashed line is the best base from which to explore Kyoto. I chose accommodation near Shijo (四条) and Karasuma (烏丸) Station, the Imu Hotel Kyoto (https://imuhotel.jp/en/), which I booked through Booking.com. One of the merits of staying near Karasuma Station is that the famous Nishiki Market (錦市場) is within walking distance. You can visit it multiple times during your stay.

Once the luggage is all settled, it’s time to explore Kyoto!

Getting around in Kyoto

The metro system in Kyoto is simpler than in Osaka. The upside is that it’s less confusing, but the downside is that you may need other means of transportation to get around. There are the Karasuma Line (烏丸線) and the Tozai Line (東西線), which cross each other at Karasuma-Oike Station (烏丸御池駅). This station is also a great location for accommodation.

The Raku Bus (洛巴士) is essential for reaching some of the most famous attractions. It operates on three different lines: Red (100), Green (101), and Yellow (102). The map below is an excellent demonstration of how these bus routes complement the metro system. Although the original website has removed this map, I believe it is the clearest and most straightforward map for showing how the bus routes intertwine with the metro system.

Lastly, consider taking a taxi (or Uber) if you find yourself lost or too tired from walking. Despite the earlier mention of places being “in walking distance,” my parents opted for taxis on some occasions. Since it’s not a very large city, the fares are unlikely to be exorbitant.

You can use the ‘Kansai Thru Pass’ for these public transportation options.

Block 1: South-East

The name “South-East” for the block is not its official name, but I find it easier to understand as a foreigner. It provides a sense of direction, which is important when traveling to an unfamiliar place.

The attractions in this block are located along the Keihan Line (京阪本線), specifically near Tofukuji Station (東福寺駅, KH36) and Fushimi Inari Station (伏見稲荷駅, KH34).

Attractions:

1. Tofukuji Temple (東福寺): https://tofukuji.jp/
   • Visiting hours: Apr-Oct 09:00-16:00, Nov 08:30-16:00, Dec-Mar 09:00-15:30. The visiting hours are slightly longer in November, possibly due to its foliage season.(https://tofukuji.jp/guide/#time)
   • Kyoto’s number one spot for viewing autumn leaves (so there will be a lot of people…). The highlight of autumn leaf viewing at Tofukuji is not just the temple itself, but the two bridges (Gaunkyo Bridge and Tsutenkyo Bridge). The classic photos are usually not of the temple, but from one bridge to the other, with a lot of maple trees lining both sides of the Sengokukan Stream (洗玉澗) that the bridges cross.
   • Suggested route: Tofukuji Station (東福寺駅) → Gaunkyo Bridge (臥雲橋) → Enter Tofukuji through Nikkamon Gate (日下門) → Hondo (仏殿, main hall) → Sammon Gate (三門) → Tsutenkyo Bridge Viewing Point (purchase tickets, there will be a very long queue, so try to arrive early) → Tsutenkyo Bridge (通天橋) (once you cross, you can’t go back, be aware!!!) → Kaisando Hall (開山堂) → End.

1. Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷大社):
   • Visiting hours: open 24 hours (https://inari.jp/en/)
   • It’s a vast complex of temples. It is highly recommended to obtain a map at the entrance (https://inari.jp/en/map/). The most famous feature is the Senbon Torii (千本鳥居).
   • Suggested route: Taisha Honden (大社本殿) → Sembon Torii (千本鳥居) → Okusha Hohaisho (奥社奉拝所) → Omokaru Stone (おもかる石) → Kandakara Shrine (神宝神社)

Block 2: North-East

The Metro does not extend to this area, so you have to take a Raku bus. I started my visit from Ginkakuji Temple (銀閣寺) and went as far as Blue Bottle Kyoto. For this, I needed to take the Karasuma Line to Imadegawa Station (今出川駅, K06), then catch the Raku Bus 102 to get there. To return, I took the Raku Bus 100 to the Higashiyama Sanjo Bus Stop (東山三条) and then switched to the Metro Tozai Line (東西線) to get back to the Imu Hotel.

Attractions: (🎟 marks the ones that have a Kansai Thru Pass discount)

1. Ginkakuji Temple (銀閣寺): https://www.shokoku-ji.jp/ginkakuji/
2. Philosopher’s Path (哲学の道)
3. Eikando Temple (永観堂) 🎟: http://www.eikando.or.jp/
4. Nanzenji Temple (南禅寺): https://nanzenji.or.jp/
5. Blue Bottle Kyoto: https://store.bluebottlecoffee.jp/
6. Heian-jingu Shrine (平安神宮) 🎟: This beautiful palace, filled with cherry blossom trees, is more popular during the cherry blossom season. https://www.heianjingu.or.jp/

Block 3: East

You could take the Hankyu Line to Kyoto-Kawaramachi Station (京都河原町駅, HK86) to reach the attractions in this region. Alternatively, if you are staying at the Imu Hotel, these attractions are within walking distance.

Attractions:

1. Hanamikoji Street (花見小路)
2. Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社): https://www.yasaka-jinja.or.jp/
3. Kenninji Temple (建仁寺): https://www.kenninji.jp/
4. Nene no Michi (ねねの道)
5. Kodaiji Temple (高台寺): https://www.kodaiji.com/
6. Ishibei-koji Lane (石塀小路)
7. Yasaka Koshin-do Temple (八坂庚申堂): http://www.yasakakousinndou.sakura.ne.jp/
8. Ninenzaka Path (二年坂)
9. Sannenzaka Path (三年坂)
10. Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺): https://www.kiyomizudera.or.jp/
11. Sanjusangendo Temple (三十三間堂): To get there, take the Raku Bus 100 from the Kiyomizu-michi Stop to the Sanjusangendo Temple Stop. Please note that photography is not allowed inside the temple! https://www.sanjusangendo.jp/

Block 4: North

It’s the Metro and Raku Bus for today.

Attractions:

1. Nijo Castle (二条城): https://nijo-jocastle.city.kyoto.lg.jp/
2. Zohiko Lacquer Shop (京漆匠 象彦): https://www.zohiko.co.jp/global/en/
3. Ippodo Tea Kyoto Main Store (一保堂茶舗 京都本店): https://www.ippodo-tea.co.jp/pages/store-kyoto
4. Kyoto Imperial Palace (京都御所): If you start at the Ippodo Tea Store, you can enter the palace through the Tominokoji Entrance (富小路口) and exit at Imadegawa Gomon (今出川御門). Then, take the Raku Bus 102 from the Karasuma Imadegawa Bus Stop (烏丸今出川バス) to Kinkakujimichi (金閣寺道バス). https://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/index.html
5. Kinkakuji (金閣寺): https://www.shokoku-ji.jp/kinkakuji/
6. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine (北野天満宮) 🎟: From Kinkakuji, take the Raku Bus 101 to Kitano Tenmangu Shrine (北野天満宮). To return to your accommodation, take the Raku Bus 102 to the Metro Karasuma Line, and then head back to your hotel. https://kitanotenmangu.or.jp/

Block 5: Further North

Start the day by taking the Keihan Main Line (京阪本線) northbound to Demachiyanagi Station (出町柳駅, KH42).

Attractions:

1. Kawai Shrine (河合神社): https://www.shimogamo-jinja.or.jp/bireikigan/
2. Shimogamo-jinja Shrine (下鴨神社): https://www.shimogamo-jinja.or.jp/
3. Maple Tree Tunnel: Head back to Demachiyanagi Station (出町柳駅, E01) and take the Eizan Kurama Line (叡山鞍馬線) to Kibuneguchi Station (貴船口駅, E16). https://eizandensha.co.jp/sightseeing/momiji/
4. Kifune Shrine (貴船神社): From Kibuneguchi Station, you can either walk for about 30 minutes or take Bus No. 33 to reach the shrine. https://kifunejinja.jp/
5. Ruriko-in Temple (瑠璃光院): Kibuneguchi Station (E16) → Takaragaike Station (宝ヶ池駅, E06) → change to Eizan Main Line → Yase-Hieizanguchi Station (八瀬比叡山口駅). This temple is so popular that it is highly recommended to make a reservation in advance. https://rurikoin.komyoji.com/
6. Mount Hiei (比叡山): Take the Eizan Ropeway
7. Kamo River Noryo-Yuka (鴨川納涼床): Enjoy a relaxing walk along the riverside walkway, which is lined with traditional homes. It’s a popular spot for strolls and enjoying beers at the water’s edge, especially after dinner. https://www.kyoto-yuka.com/

Block 6: West and South

To travel to the western part of Kyoto, walk to Shijo-Omiya Station (四条大宮駅, A1) and take the Randen Line (嵐電線) to Arashiyama Station (嵐山駅, A13).

Attractions:

1. Bamboo Forest (竹林の小径)
2. Nonomiya Shrine (野宮神社): http://nonomiya.com/
3. Jojakkoji Temple (常寂光寺): https://jojakko-ji.or.jp/
4. Arashiyama Park Observation Deck (頂上展望台)
5. Hogon-in (宝厳院): https://hogonin.jp/
6. Tenryu-ji (天龍寺): https://www.tenryuji.com/
7. Kōgen-ji Temple (弘源寺): https://kogenji.jp/
8. Togetsukyo Bridge (渡月橋)
9. Sagano Scenic Railway (嵯峨野観光鉄道): https://www.sagano-kanko.co.jp/en/
10. Nishi Hongan-ji Temple (西本願寺): To reach your destination, return to Shijo-Omiya Station (四条大宮駅). From there, you can either walk for about 20 minutes south or take a regular bus (not the Raku Bus) from Shijo-Omiya Bus Stop (四条大宮バス) to Shimabaraguchi (島原口バス). While there are no autumn leaves, you will find some ancient Ginkgo trees. These trees’ leaves turn a bright yellow in the fall. The timing of the Ginkgo foliage differs from that of the maple leaves, but there is some overlap. With a bit of luck, you may be able to see both. https://www.hongwanji.kyoto/
11. Higashi Hongan-ji Temple (東本願寺): https://www.higashihonganji.or.jp/
12. Kyoto Tower (京都タワー) 🎟: For a night view of the city.
13. Kyoto Station (京都駅)
14. To-ji Temple (東寺): For night visits to view the foliage, there are four Kyoto temples that offer this experience. Besides the one previously mentioned, the other three are Hogon-in (宝厳院), Ninnaji (仁和寺), and Tofukuji Temple (東福寺). To reach To-ji Temple, it’s a 15-minute walk from Kyoto Station. https://toji.or.jp/

Foliage information

I highly recommend this website: 京都紅葉情報 https://souda-kyoto.jp/guide/season/koyo/. It lists all the temples with maple trees. During the foliage season, it provides daily updates about the foliage condition at each site, outlining several stages of the foliage, listed in order:

• 始まり (Hajimari): The beginning of the fall foliage when the leaves start to change their color.
• 色づき (Irozuki): The transition phase between the beginning and the peak.
• 見頃 (Migoro): The peak or the most beautiful state of the fall foliage.
• 散り始め (Chirihajime): The leaves begin to fall.
• 終わり (Owari): The end of the fall foliage season.

You can adjust your visiting order based on this vital information because the Migoro (peak viewing time) is not synchronized at each site. The advantage of planning your trip in blocks is that it allows for easy adjustments. During their visit to Kyoto, some places were still in the Irozuki (color changing) stage, while others had already reached Migoro. By adjusting the order of the blocks, you get the best chance to see the foliage in its most beautiful condition.

The website is only available in Japanese, but you can use Google Translate, which I find still readable. The same website also offers similar useful content about the cherry blossom season (https://souda-kyoto.jp/guide/season/sakura/). The attractions are completely different in these two seasons. If I travel to Japan during the cherry blossom season in the future, I will update with a new post for the blog.