In this post, we will explore the two largest and most populated islands of Matsu: Nangan and Beigan. If you have very limited time, these islands are the most accessible and should be a must on your itinerary. You can delve into their rich history and enjoy Matsu’s famous seafood. At night, you might also experience the natural wonder of Blue Tears.
Table of Contents
Day 2: Nangan
Overview: Take the ferry to Nangan, and stay the night at Nangan
- Rationale: Nangan, being the largest island and home to 80% of Matsu’s population, is rich in historical monuments and architecture. It may require a full day or even a day and a half to explore thoroughly. To manage your time wisely, consider exploring part of Nangan on your arrival day before heading to Juguang, or leave Juguang earlier to make your day in Nangan less rushed.
- Transportation: (Abbreviations: EJ – East Juguang, WJ – West Juguang)
| Route | Time | Price | Duration |
| Juguang to Nangan | **Odd months** WJ 07:50, EJ 08:10 WJ 11:50, EJ 12:10 WJ 15:20, EJ 15:40 **Even months** EJ 07:50, WJ 08:10 EJ 11:50, WJ 12:10 EJ 15:20, WJ 15:40 | NT 250 (US$ 7.7) | ~45 min |
The following three attractions are within walking distance of Nangan Airport. If you are flying back to Taiwan from here, visiting these places before boarding could be a convenient option.
Tunnel 88 (Baba Tunnel, 八八坑道)
This is the storage area for Matsu Old Wine (馬祖老酒). You can see the iconic jars used to age the wine. Inside the tunnel, it is cool and humid, creating the perfect environment for the wine.
Matsu Liquor Factory (馬祖酒廠)
A place where you can buy the wines and other wine-related products.
Niujiao Village (牛角聚落)
A traditional village with two iconic temples side by side worships the Xuantian Emperor (玄天大帝). The red exteriors are beautiful, but the interiors are somewhat empty and creepy. At night, this village is also a hotspot for a type of Blue Tears called “Star Sand (星砂).” These do not appear like waves but rather like scattered, shiny sand. However, on the night I visited, the phenomenon was too faint to be photographed.
For photos of Star Sand, you can check out this link: https://www.matsu.idv.tw/topicdetail.php?f=13&t=202925
These following two attractions are located on the west coast of Nangan.
Statue of Mazu (媽祖巨神像)
Completed in 2009, the statue is made of 365 pieces of granite. Beneath it is a prayer tunnel (祈福坑道). In Matsu, there are numerous tunnels originally built for military purposes, but they have now been repurposed in various creative ways.
Matsu Tianhou Temple (馬港天后宮)
Rebuilt from scratch in 1943, this temple is not particularly old, but its design is very meticulous. The interior is intricately carved, but it is considered disrespectful to photograph the deity statues inside the temple. Although it is not prohibited, I did not take any photos. You have to visit to see it for yourself!
The following attractions are located on the south coast of Nangan.
Big Cannon (大砲連)
The cannon was previously used during civil wars. Please do not touch, stand, or sit on the cannon. Soldiers stationed in the hideouts above will issue warnings if necessary.
Dahan Strongpoint (大漢據點)
Indian Head Rock (印地安人頭岩)
Beihei Tunnel (北海坑道)
This man-made tunnel was carved into the granite cliffs using TNT during the Cold War. The 700-meter-long tunnel was originally designed for military purposes. Today, it offers visitors a mesmerizing underground adventure with its tranquil waters and atmospheric lighting. The tunnel’s reflection on the water creates a captivating mirror effect, enhancing the surreal experience. Visiting the Beihei Tunnel during the day offers a stunning view of its colorful granite structure. At night, it becomes a guaranteed spot to see the Blue Tears, providing a spectacular display even in poor weather conditions.
Iron Fort (Tiebao, 鐵堡)
Jinsha Village (津沙聚落)
Another Ming Dong style village; it was perhaps my favorite of them all. Very well-preserved, it features small valleys that you can explore for some time.
For those interested in the history and culture of Taiwan and Matsu, the following three attractions may be of interest to you.
Zhenge Daidan Memorial Park (枕戈待旦紀念公園)
Matsu Folklore Culture Museum (馬祖民俗文物館)
Ching-Kuo Memorial Hall (經國先生紀念堂)
This is dedicated to Chiang Ching-Kuo, the son of Chiang Kai-Shek, who also has a more famous memorial hall in Taipei. Chiang Ching-Kuo was the last authoritarian leader of Taiwan. During his final years, under pressure from the United States, Taiwan began its transition to democracy. Remarkably, this shift to a democratic government occurred peacefully, without bloodshed.
Fuao Harbor (福澳港)
The main harbor of Nangan. Located closer to China than to Taiwan’s main island, Matsu has long been a strategic frontline, dotted with both former and current military bases. The green light visible in the background is the glow from nearby Chinese fishing boats. Locally, this phenomenon is affectionately referred to as the “Northern Lights of Matsu.”
Accommodation
I stayed at “津沙堤岸.” The hostess, a Chinese immigrant to Matsu, is very nice, although I’m not sure if she speaks English, as there were no English translations provided on Booking.com or Google Maps. The room was spacious and the shared bathroom was clean. The window offered a great view of the bank and the ocean. Additionally, the location is next to one of the highest-rated restaurants in Beigan. Spicy Boiled Fish (麻辣水煮魚) is their specialty. All the seafood was very fresh.
| 津沙堤岸 (Link): https://www.booking.com/Share-3T5kQm2 |
| Map: https://maps.app.goo.gl/GCKuKjvZs5i12pyJ8 Near by restaurant (津沙小館): https://maps.app.goo.gl/69cnum39ynHzXhKM9 |
Day 3: Beigan
Overview: Take the ferry to Beigan and stay the night at Beigan
- Rationale: Stay on the island from which you are taking the flight the next day.
- Transportation: The ferry between Nangan and Beigan operates every 30 minutes during peak hours and hourly off-peak. Beigan features two harbors: Baisha Harbor (白沙港), where ferries from Nangan arrive, and Qiaozi Harbor (橋仔港), which serves Daqiu Island (大坵島). Unlike Baisha, Qiaozi Harbor does not have a fixed schedule. To visit Daqiu, known for its numerous Sika deer, you should arrange transportation through your accommodation host. It’s best to visit Daqiu early in the morning or late in the afternoon, as the deer tend to seek shade and hide during midday.
Qinbi Village (芹壁聚落)
It is the most famous and iconic Ming Dong-style village in Matsu. Like many popular tourist destinations, most of the houses here have been converted into accommodations or restaurants, resulting in few locals living in the area. In my opinion, this affects the village’s authentic vibe compared to Jinsha Village. However, Qinbi remains highly photogenic. On clear days, the sunset views are stunning, evoking the charm similar to Santorini.
Matsu Broadcast Station
Qiaozi Village (橋仔聚落)
Another Ming Dong-style village; this one is less well-preserved. Some of the new buildings under construction are visually unappealing and may detract from the overall aesthetic of the village.
Bishan (壁山)
This is the highest mountain in Matsu. It offers views of nearby islets and the airport.
Site 06 (06據點)
One of the many military sites in Matsu, these were not open to the public until the recent decade. Originally, the paths were designed for military vehicles and tanks in case of war. Along the coast, bunkers for machine guns and cannons were constructed to defend the island. The stairs leading to these sites are steep, offering stunning views of the ocean.
Daqiu Island (大坵島)
A 10-minute boat ride from Qiaozi Harbor. Upon arrival, you’ll likely be greeted by a group of deer at the harbor. You can purchase mulberry leaves for feeding the deer either at Qiaozi Harbor or on Daqiu Island. Be cautious, as the deer are quite strong and can be unpredictable. A leisurely walk around the island takes about an hour, including stops to feed the deer. For the best experience, plan your visit for early morning or evening to coincide with the deer’s feeding times.
Banli Beach (板里沙灘), Tanghou Beach (塘後沙灘), Mabiwan Park (馬鼻彎)
Beigan has larger beaches, increasing the likelihood of seeing Blue Tears in the waves as they roll onto the shore. You can use weather forecast apps like “Windy” to check the wind direction; if it’s blowing toward the beach, your chances of witnessing Blue Tears are significantly higher.
Accommodation
I stayed at “Lohas Seaview B&B (樂活海景民宿),” which had recently been renovated. The hostess was very helpful and accommodating. The breakfast was delightful, and the location is conveniently within walking distance to Qiaozi Harbor. If you plan to visit Daqiu Island, this B&B is an ideal place to stay. Additionally, Qiaozi Harbor is the departure point for Blue Tears boat tours. The speedboat takes you out to sea, where you can witness the stunning Blue Tears phenomenon. Like the boat tours to Daqiu, the Blue Tears boat tours are typically arranged by your accommodation host. Unfortunately, I was unable to participate in the boat tour due to unfavorable weather conditions during my stay in Beigan.
Most of the restaurants are in Tangqi Village (塘岐村), which is about a 10-minute drive from Qiaozi Village. There is a type of clam called “Buddha’s hand (佛手),” rarely seen outside of Matsu. While it is not particularly delicious, its unusual shape makes it worth trying at least once.
| Lohas Seaview B&B (Link): https://www.booking.com/Share-nYwAZQq |
| Map: https://maps.app.goo.gl/nPTQkLmBM2jz21jc6 Recommended restaurant (龍和閩東風味館): https://maps.app.goo.gl/vmvmrHFE18DTZ25YA |
Day 4
Overview: Enjoy a morning walk, then take the plane back to Taiwan.
- Rationale: Remember that you must physically check in at the airport half an hour before boarding, or your seat will be given to waitlisted passengers. Only Taiwanese citizens can use the self-check-in machines; all foreigners need to check in at the counter.
- Transportation: I think choosing an earlier flight is better because Matsu is frequently foggy, and flights might get canceled. Booking an earlier flight gives you a better chance of securing a good position on the waiting list if your flight unfortunately gets canceled.
This concludes the comprehensive guide to visiting Matsu from Taiwan. I hope you find it helpful. If you have any questions or need additional information about Matsu that I haven’t covered, please leave a message!